Back in January we saw the seventh season of London Collections Men (LCM) hosted at its new home at Victoria House. For a relatively new event in the fashion calendar this expansion highlighted the importance of menswear in the fashion industry and its ever-increasing prominence amongst consumers.
LCM is always a relatively subdued affair when compared to its female counterpart - London Fashion Week. Being such a young event LCM has bypassed the monopolies of female fashion that has been entwined in society for hundreds of years, and instead strips it back to basics. There’s less of the peacocking and more focus on the subtleties of fashion. For AW16 this rung true more than ever.
Rather than exaggerating the upcoming season’s trends, the focus was on functional, wearable pieces, designed with the contemporary man in mind. Comfort was merged with practicality, while managing not to become dowdy. Quality cuts, simplistic designs and multi-functional fabrics made for an obtainable vision for menswear, bringing it to the masses, rather than attempting to remain elitist.
Moralistic virtues associated with the word utility were explored through delicate detailing. From Burberry’s cavalry striped trousers and khaki capes, to Maharishi’s knitted Kevlar vests, barely there details epitomised military precision. Fabrics in denim, leather and reinforced cotton also added to the tough, sturdy nature. Craig Green presented a collection exploring the concept of protection - ties and straps, portrayed the notion of safety.
In keeping with practicality came comfort. Synonymously connected, the two married together perfectly for the ultimate in seamless dressing. Lou Dalton chose to draw inspiration from the Shetland Islands – opting for oversized fishermen’s jumpers in bottle green and slouchy trousers for ideal for a relaxed country look. Topman Design also shared the ‘comfort is key’ philosophy, dressing models in silk shirts and pyjama trousers. Their construct, destruct, reconstruct ideology was symbolised with laddered jumpers, wide-legged trousers and baggy knitwear.
Earthy easy to wear tones were a recurrent theme throughout all of the London’s menswear shows. Moss greens and sandy tan colours provided the base colours for Baartmans and Seigel and Oliver Spencer, while Agi and Sam peppered their collection with touches of navy to create a sophisticated, pulled together vibe. Wool, shearling, leather and cosy faux fur kept the looks from looking bland, providing a touchable, tangible element to engage would be consumers.